The John Lobb factory is one of the leading manufacturers in Northampton, a city that became famous as a center of footwear production in the 17th century. Although the brand has been under Hermes since 1976, the factory is dedicated to preserving the traditional production process developed in the Victorian era.
Modern machines are present but secondary. Specifically, leather cutting is still performed by hand rather than with lasers. Instead, plastic templates are produced, which are handed to clickers. Their title comes from the distinctive “click” of the knife striking the cutting table. With special blades, they cut the hides manually.
Production is carefully restricted, with only 450–500 pairs made each week. This approach resembles bespoke work. Employees work on multiple models daily, instead of repeating one routine step like in typical factories. Every shoe is built with the Goodyear method, allowing the worn sole to be changed without damaging the upper.
Similar to Hermes, John Lobb chooses only the finest leather, particularly from young French calf hides. Only about sixty percent is usable for uppers, while the remainder becomes minor leather goods.
The range combines timeless classics with subtle refinements. The classic City II model, for instance, were slightly reshaped. The Sennen model gained longer straps and a more robust foundation. The Lopez model, introduced in the 1950s, were updated with new colors and rubber soles. Newer icons include the Porth trainers and the Levah shoes, which are offered annually in various colors and materials.
Through its balance of heritage and innovation, John Lobb continues to be a benchmark in the British footwear industry.
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